food

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Due to fog I was recently stuck in Providence, and, of course, took the opportunity to dine at New Rivers. While the entire time I thought of how much I wished M was with me, I enjoy sitting at the bar alone, and, given my solo-ness, took some liberties that I otherwise wouldn’t.

For instance, after a fantastic appetizer and entree, I scanned the dessert menu, and then asked the bartender to see the dinner menu again.

While the desserts looked great, what I really wanted was …wait for it… the appetizer of, and I quote from the photo I took of the menu, “4 local littlenecks baked with our bacon, brioche crumbs, summer savory butter.”

I could think of no better “dessert.”

A few minutes later, to what I thought would be the dismay of the bartender and those around me I announced, “I have a suggestion.” Seeing the cocked eyebrows I continued, “Restaurants of this ilk should offer a savory ‘dessert.’” I continued: “Not some sort of cheese plate (not that there’s anything wrong with them), but something like clams or pork belly that could really finish off a meal in a manner that yet another melting chocolate cake or sorbet with madelines just can’t.” A dramatic pause, and then: “For dessert, I’ll take the clams!”

Well, after my little proclamation I was pleasantly surprised to find that those around me began chattering about what “savory” desserts they would be happy to see on a menu. (Is it any wonder that anyone with any sense always goes for the dessert that is described as containing salt (e.g. salted caramel whatever?))

Of course, the vast majority of people are perfectly content with desserts as we assume them to be, and would be repulsed by the idea of seeing some sort of, for instance, offal next to a profiterole on a menu.

But you know who I don’t really give a rat’s ass about? Exactly: “The vast majority of people.”

In fact, I believe there’s a vast market of people who are eager for something like clams for dessert. I also believe that, given the right organizational structure, these people often become something of a vocal minority.

My advice: Build businesses for those who go the opposite direction; for those whom the vast majority finds “weird;” for those whom make the vast majority uncomfortable.

The funny thing is that some material percentage of these things that the vast majority once found “weird” or disconcerting or unpalatable will be the same things that, in due course, are embraced by these same people (who will, of course, claim they’ve “always” loved these things).

At that point, you, the early adopter, will be significantly rewarded for being there first.

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There are few things I love more than excruciating, obsessive, compulsive attention directed at things that the majority of the world deems trivial.

I spend many months of the year in Academia and am surrounded, most pleasantly, by, for example, economists who typify this obsession. While I have respect and admiration for them, I largely exclude them from the pantheon of those who obsess over minutiae, because economists, you know, make a living from their obsession.

No, what I’m talking about are those who get granular upon the asses of things like obscure 78s from some label in Murfreesboro that was run out of the sub-basement of a tool and dye shop.

Or, better, those who obsess over the minutiae of food and drink.

I was so delighted by, for instance, Cod when it came out, and its spawn, like, Salt (mmm, Salt Cod…Brandade… /Homer voice).

I spent a few happy late night hours the other night reading about the Piña Colada.

I can pretty much read about cheese all day.

There are a few grails in this gustatory realm that I seem to be constantly looking for clues to a riddle I don’t really want to solve. The origins, for instance, of the martini, the margarita, and … Caesar Salad.

We should not bother wondering why we quest for a deeper understanding of things like martinis and Caesar Salads, because to do so would shine an analytic light upon poetry. And who wants to do that?

Rather, we should encourage these quests. We should revel around them. We should whisper clues, sotto voce, and, depending upon the response, realize that we have found a fellow traveler, or just another who will never understand.

After domesticity fell apart tonight (my fault; shocking), and I was left home alone while M and the kids went to the beach, I determined not to wallow in my failings as a father, husband, communicator…human, and to make the best of the situation.

This meant using left over ingredients to cook for myself. Yes, there was a grilled pizza involved, but speaking of this is better left for another time (I do want to have a tweet up, meet up, pizza up at some point and grill pizzas for all of you – it is what I do).

No, this was about the Caesar.

You see, as I am the lone dissenter from all things vegetarian in our little house on the prairie, anchovies tend to remain in their tins around here.

Tonight they were liberated.

I took one and put it in a mortar with a little bit of a garlic clove and a little bit of olive oil, and bashed away. I created a paste.

I then took some good, local romaine (and this will be heretical to many in the trad Caesar world, but, I’m only getting started with my heresy as you shall see) and chopped it up and stuck it in the freezer.

I took some more anchovies, rinsed them, and stuck them in a ramekin filled with milk.

I then stirred a bit more olive oil in my mortar.

Once the lettuce was very cold, but not frozen, I took it out, put it in a wooden bowl, and lightly salted it.

I rinsed off the anchovies that were mellowing in the milk.

Applying the most ingenious technique I’ve come across in ages, I did the dressing-in-the-palm-of-my-hand trick and coated the chopped lettuce with my anchovy, garlic, olive oil mixture. I then squeezed a little lemon juice over it, and tossed with my hands again.

It was, by far, the best Caesar salad I’ve had … maybe ever. I’d say on a par with Musso and Frank’s.

No, there was no egg. No, there was no Worcestershire. No, there was no parm reg. (See…heresy.)

I know what you’re thinking: “Not a Caesar!” Perhaps you’re right, but man did it taste like what you want a Caesar to taste like.

It helped that I ate it with grilled pizza, while drinking a Bandol (even while my dear friend Tanya tells me, on the occasions when I’m stuck eating some crap in transit from one place to the next, that life can’t always be Rose and grilled pizza, I ask, why not?).

The quest continues – for the perfect Caesar/the “real” Caesar – but this was darn close.

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Long weekend with very little to show for it; though I’ve done nothing but work.

Salvaged it somehow by throwing a few things together for dinner for myself (M and the kids at a movie).

Boiled up a big ass pot of very salted water and cooked some shells.

While cooking, I toasted a few slices of day (really, two or three day) old bread, and put some good olive oil on it (I find it works better putting the evoo on after toasting/grilling the bread; reduces the chances of accidentally scorching the oil). Used a vegetable peeler to slice some Parm Reg over it.

Washed some really good local lettuce.

*Here’s the real take-away from this post*: Dressed it by putting a little bit of walnut oil in the palm of my hand and tossing the salad; then adding a little bit of decent vinegar to my hand and tossed again. Salt. Done. (This is by far the best way to make a dressing. I’m pretty sure it’s a Mark Bittman trick).

Shells done, I reserved a cup or so of the heavily-salted cooking water (important) and drained them.

Tossed them in a pan with a little butter, olive oil and one of those teeny little cans of tomato juice. Added some of the pasta cooking water.

Let it cook down for about 5 minutes. S&P, grated parm reg.

Done.

Lillet blond and soda to drink.

The weekend finished on a high note.

(Annabelle is currently eating the left-over shells.)

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One of the things I like about traveling is that in those “non-productive” moments – such as when they force you to put your laptop/iPhone away while the plane is taking off/landing – I end up just letting my mind roam over the various reading materials I stockpile for such moments.

I always enjoy coming home and either going through my Moleskine to see what notes I’ve jotted down, or, more recently, syncing my iPhone with Evernote list with my lap top.

Here’s what I came back with this time:

Movie to see:
Withnail and I

Book to Read:
A Most Wanted Man by John le Carré

Music to Buy
Os Mutantes. A record I’ve had and seem to have lost, and now want to hear again.

S.F. Sorrow by The Pretty Things. Crucial 60s psychedelia.

The Kink Kronikles. Early Kinks comp.

Misc.
I underlined this quote from the Marquess of Queensberry Rules on boxing:

Don’t do away with combat, but create rules so that It can be waged in a reasonable fashion.

I also read about this great bartending idea of rinsing your glass with a complimentary booze prior to pouring the drink. So, for instance, if youwhen I make a margarita tonight, I will rinse my glass with Mezcal prior to pouring. You could apply the same logic to a manhattan, rinsing with a good single malt.

As always, I found tons of restaurants to visit in my travels, and I shall dutifully report upon them post haste. Watch this space.

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Noodles

Sort of a food theme here on 9GS for the past couple of days.

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Via Kottke.

Posted by email from George’s posterous

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