My late 2008 MacBook Pro had become virtually unusable. Opening almost any application resulted in the spinning beach ball of doom. I was constantly having to force quit applications, shut down the machine, and restart (which took forever) to accomplish the simplest of tasks.
Now, I don’t blame Apple. I’ve gotten a good three or so years out of this machine, and that’s about the best you’re going to get.
So, you have two choices.
(A) Shell out for a new machine (and, anyone who knows me knows how susceptible I am to new Apple products, and the current Airs, MBP with Retina, and the soon-to-be-announced 13″ MBP with Retina, look darn good)
(B) Replace the Hard Drive with a Solid State Drive
Any of us who have iPhones or iPads have become accustomed to apps opening instantly, and generally being super-responsive. This is because rather than using old-school hard drives (HDD) that spin, they instead use solid state drives (SSD) that have no moving parts, and, therefore, perform much faster.
These solid state drives, due to Moore’s Law, have – over the past few years – become increasingly inexpensive, and able to store large amounts of stuff. Therefore, a 256G SSD drive, while once obscenely expensive in comparison to the same size HDD, is now affordable (remember, iPhones and iPads have relatively small storage space (the new iPhone5 tops out at 64G).
Most of the new macs are shipped with SSDs, but for most people (i.e. those who didn’t order a custom Mac or an Air) who bought their Macs prior to 2011, they still – like I do – have HDDs. The performance of these HDDs degrades over time to a point where the machine becomes unusable. At this point, most people buy a new machine (perhaps it’s planned obsolescence on Apple’s part – perhaps not).
Buying a new machine is, of course, a fine (if expensive option). However, aside from the Retina displays (which are great), if you’ve bought a Mac in the last three years or so there haven’t been too many changes to either form or function.
Taken together, option B, above, becomes a no-brainer.
It means opening up your machine and fooling with the guts. For most people this is a non-starter, and so they buy a new machine.
Having, just this morning (in under 30 minutes), swapped out my HDD for a SSD, and now, feeling like I’m running the fastest computer on earth, I really must encourage you to try replacing your HDD with a SSD before you shell out for a new machine.
1. Order what you need:
a. SSD drive: Samsung 830 256GB SATA Internal Solid State Drive (you could go with more storage space, but the price goes from $189 for 256GB to $508 for 512GB; if you’ve got more than 256GB of stuff on your machine, I’d suggest moving some of it (photos, movies) to an external drive).
b. Cable to connect your new drive to the USB on your computer so you can clone your HDD to your new SSD (more on this below). This cable does the trick. The accompanying disc that makes this a “Harddrive Upgrade Kit” is worthless; you won’t use it.
c. A tiny screwdriver. This one has all the bits you need, and is nicely magnetic.
d. Hard Disk Caddy (OPTIONAL, but recommended). This is so that you can move your HDD to the space that is currently occupied by your optical (ie DVD drive). This will give you more space to store files, BUT you will no longer be able to put DVDs or CDs into your computer. Also, if your HDD is really shot this makes no sense. If, on the other hand, your HDD is working, but sluggish, it’s a great way to double your storage space (move all your photos, movies, etc. to this HDD, but leave your apps, etc., on your new SSD).
2. Download Carbon Copy Cloner. This piece of software (free 30 day trial) will make an EXACT copy of your machine on your new SSD. This means that it’s bootable; i.e. you can start your machine up from the copy of your machine. This is VERY different than, for instance, a Time Machine back up, which backs up your files, but does not do so in a way that you can boot from (you have to put them back in the right place, deal with permissions, etc. Nightmare).
3. Format your new SSD. Plug the cable you got from the list above into your new SSD and run Disk Utility on your Mac. Erase the SSD, and rename it (I called mine, “George’s SSD”). This reformats it in a manner that allows your Mac to talk to it.
4. Make a clone of your HDD onto your SSD. With the SSD still plugged into your cable, run Carbon Copy Cloner. It’ll ask you if you want it to create a recovery partition. You do. After this is done, clone your disk. Depending on how much stuff you have on your HDD, this could take a while. It took about five hours for me to clone around 120GB.
5. Check to make sure the Cloning worked. With the new SSD still plugged in via your cable, shut down your mac, and then restart while holding the Option key down. Once the machine starts up you should see options for which disk you want to boot from. Boot from the SSD. Don’t be disheartened if it takes a few minutes (remember, you’re transferring information over USB – not fast). Open some apps, and docs, and make sure everything is working OK. Assuming it is, shut down your Mac.
Now comes the fun/scary part.
6. Replace your HDD with your SSD. Unplug your Mac, turn it on its back, and pull up the little lever that opens the battery/HD cover. Using your little screwdriver unscrew the screws around your HDD, and then pull the little piece of tape that pops it out. Pop in the new SSD, making sure to connect the male to the female parts of the interface, and screw it back in.
If you’re not replacing your optical (i.e. CD/DVD drive) with your old HDD, you’re done. Just pop the battery cover on, and reboot your machine (normally, i.e. without holding down “option”), and enjoy your new mac. You should also make sure Trim is enabled on your new drive. Download THIS app (free), and run it.
If you are, continue…
7. Take the entire back of the mac off. Unscrew all of the other screws around the cover so that the entire back of your machine comes off. Make sure you remember which screw goes in which hole.
8. Remove the Optical drive. Unscrew JUST the screws around the optical drive (being careful not to unscrew the onces connected to the fans). Pop it out, and decouple the male from female connector.
9. Put the HDD into the Disk Caddy. Only tricky part here is changing out the Phillips screw driver bit for an Allen-style bit, and unscrewing the sides of the HDD so that it will fit into the caddy.
10. Put the HDD caddy into the Optical Space. It takes a little jiggling, and if the connector unhooks, you MUST press it back together (you’ll see what I mean). There’s really only one way it can go in, so you just have to massage it into place.
Screw everything back together, plug your machine in, and reboot normally.
Now, your machine should scream with speed (remember to enable Trim), and you have extra space via your HDD, which is sitting in your Optical drive’s old space. You can completely wipe this HDD (using disk utility), and then put whatever you want on it. Again, DON’T put your apps or system files on this HDD. You want those on your SSD, as they are giving you all the speed. Instead, put your docs, photos, music, etc. there.